Daytripper: Stepping into Hakka Culture

By Ziyi Yuan, 2015-12-15 04:00:00

Daytripper is a regular column that aims to help people get the most out of their PRD experience by proposing fun excursions that can be made in a single day to explore the local culture and nature of the region.

It’s not that complicated to find a Hakka-style building in the PRD. However, you may be surprised to learn that one of the largest traditional homes of this Han Chinese subgroup is well hidden in bustling Shenzhen.

Hehu New Residence (also known as the Hakka Folk Customs Museum) is located in Longgang District, but despite its relative proximity to the city center it rarely has swarms of visitors.

As you approach the quiet outside gate, you will see a board guiding you to all the newest activities available to try inside. Walking further, you will be greeted by a semicircular lake with a large green field around it. If this place had a second name, it would probably be Serenity. 

Standing at the entrance to this other, earlier world may be overwhelming at first. With antithetical couplets on each side of the doors and classic red lanterns, Hehu New Residence takes you back in time – if your friends are still nagging you about not living in ‘real China,’ a few photos from the area are sure to silence their complaints.

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The residence is divided into four main parts: Front Street, God Street, Side Street and Backyard. As you take a leisurely stroll down Front Street, on the left you will see a scene from a Hakka wedding and marriage. Further down the road are handicraft workshops, introducing you to the ancient arts of typography, bamboo weaving and tofu making – a great place to stop by and pick up a few unconventional skills. If you have something grander in mind than making a name for yourself as the best tofu chef in town, take a peek into the Dragon Boat Room. Home to a real dragon boat, it’s also a place to learn about how the traditional vessels were made. 

There is great beauty in detail on Front Street. From the ever-present lotus flowers to the oyster-shell windows, it’s not a place to rush through; it’s meant to be savored.

If you are a Chinese history buff, no English sign in Hehu New Residence should be left unexamined. This place is a story within itself, and each relic reveals a story of the past. The Dragon Wall, for instance, has burnt remains beside it, because during World War II, when the village was attacked by the Japanese army, it protected the local citizens. 

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As the tour of Hehu New Residence comes to an end, you will see an ancient well, surrounded by mango and jackfruit trees. Spare a minute to take in this sight. Close your eyes and imagine the village’s former residents taking trips to the well for water and picking a few juicy fruits for the road back. When you open your eyes again, it will be even harder to believe that you actually have not even left the metropolis.

Shenzhen is full of surprises, and Hehu New Residence is one of its best hidden treasures. ZY


How to get there (from Shenzhen): 

By public transport: Take metro Line 3 to Nanlian Station (Exit C), walk straight on Bixin Lu and turn onto Longyuan Lu. Alternatively, take bus 366, 329 or 351 to Longgang Jiedao Ban, then walk directly to Hehu New Residence. 

When: Open daily 9am-5.30pm

Cost: RMB10/person

Where: Hehu New Residence, Longgang District, Shenzhen 深圳市龙岗区鹤湖新居 (0755-8429 7960)

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